Il Modellismo

Pattern making sewing and techniques

The book IL MODELLISMO, that can be used both in the sartorial and industrial tailoring, teaches how to create patterns "by hand". The book is addressed mainly to students from fashion institutes and skilled tailors, but thanks to the simple and clear language it can be used by all lovers of couture.

The edition is bilingual Italian-English. The first part is devoted to the study for taking measurements and wearability, following the construction of the bodice and dress bases with all dart in transfer options.

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Book Details
Title: Il Modellismo, the pattern making book
Paperback: 464 pages
Publisher: Istituto di Moda Burgo
Author: Fernando Burgo
Co-Author: Stefano Burgo
Language: English and Italian
Last Edition: 14 February 2023 VIII edition
Previous editions: 1992, 1996, 1998, 2004, 2009, 2013, 2018
ISBN:88-900101-5-0 Size: 31 x 22cm Weight: 1830g
Cost: 100 Euro
Book Index
Practical system to obtain measurements
Easy allowance of garments

Basic straight skirt
Wrap skirt
Flared skirt
Panel skirt
Eight gored skirt
Half-circle skirt
Circle skirt
Miniskirt with joke
Long skirt with joke and slits
Straight skirt with inverted pleats
Skirt with joke and knife pleats
Skirt with all around pleats
Draped skirt
Basic culottes
Pleated culottes

Shirt with yoke and two-piece short collar
Shirt with hidden buttonstand and pleats sleeve
Elegant shirt with jabot collar and flared sleeve
Shirt with large collar
Blouson shirt with butterfly collar
Shirt with simple kimono
Shirt with button placket and kimono with gussets
Shirt with raglan sleeve
Raglan shirt with front draped

Basic trousers
Large trousers
Riding pants
Elegant jumpsuit
Jumpsuit with hood

American dress
Princess dress with flared skirt
Fitted summer dress
Oriental style dress
Coat dress
Double breasted dress with pleats
Wrap dress with short kimono sleeve
Empire dress with diagonal pleating at bust
Draped long dress with asymmetrical neckline
Draped floor length dress with kimono sleeve

Classic single breasted blazer
Classic double breasted jacket
Classic Chanel jacket
Smoking jacket
Safari suit
Tailored pricess jacket
Jacket with lantern sleeve
Jacket with joke and full sleeve gusset
Kimono jacket with gusset along the sleeve
Tailored kimono with side panel pocket
Jacket with low shoulder
Jacket with yoke raglan
Motorcycle jacket
Classic vest
Double breasted vest

Classic coat
Princess line coat
Coat with draped collar
Coat with raglan sleeve
Trench coat
Duffle coat
Flared cape
Fur coat
Long furcoat

Maternity dress

Princess bodice
Fish tail wedding dress
Wedding dress with tulip shape sleeve
Wedding dress with wide skirt Unitard

Basic maillot swimsuit
Leotard with optimal sleeve
Bustier with optimal garters
Hight brief
French cut brief
Lace brief
Low waist bikini
Boy short
Tap pants
Bra top
Triangles bra
Reduction bra
Underwire bra
Balcony bra

Bathing suit
Draped Bikini
Bikini with keyhole top

Full slip
Half slip with cups
Long sleep chemise
Night gown
Pyjamas with drop shoulder
Dressing gown

Practical system to obtain measurements
Bsic men's shirt
Classic trousers
Cuffed trousers
Single breasted two button blazer
Classic double breasted jacked
Golf jacket
Leather jacket
Basic tuxedo jacket with shawl lapel
Classic vest
Double breasted vest
Cutaway coat
Classic coat
Raincoat with raglan sleeve
T- shirt
Man's Brief
Smoking jacket

Practical system to obtain measurements
Sleeper (3 months)
Sleeper (12 months)
Apron dress
Asymmetrical draped skirt (8 years old)
Overalls (8 years old)
Coat with raglan sleeve
Princess coat with hidden button hole closure
Shirt jacket
Zipped sweat shirt
Single breasted three-button blazer (8 years old)


Tailoring equipment

General Industrial Basics
Computer Cad-Cam
Pattern grading

Fashion Institute Burgo
Professional Course
Didactic texts of Fashion Institute Burgo publisher
Pattern maker program
Italian index

Fashion Book Gallery

schematic woman figure divided in 8 part
Woman body standard measurements table:
In order to wear a garment with comfort and ease it is necessary to add a few centimeters to the original body measurements.
diagram to draw eyes and faces
The basic two-piece sleeve:
Through the techniques illustrated in the graph you can adjust at will the wearability according to the type of fabric used.
fashion drawing template
Classic double breasted racket:
This chart shows one way to draw darts. The measure is based on the breast difference.
echnical instruments
Classic vest:
Use the basic bodice with darts traced up to the hip level with an appropriate ease allowance.
fashion sketch
Princess line coat:
Trace the classic coat. Use the back and front joined with an appropriate ease allowance.
Sequences of Fashion Design drawing book  2
Bustier with suspender straps:
Use the basic maillot with darts.
rendering fabric
Bikini with keyhole top:
Trace the basic maillot with darts to the waist.
children diagram
Single breasted two-button blazer:
For this sleeve pattern the fit may vary depending on the fabric.
underwear figure step
Classic coat:
To realize this kind of coat you draw the back and front with adequate fit to the line.
shoes design scheme and introduction
Single breasted three-button blazer (8 years old):
Draft the front and the back separately.
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